.38/.357 prototype

[Cutter]

I made up the recoil plate and rear cover recently.    I still have to make the holes in the rear cover for the bolts and cocking switch.  

 

Any ideas for methods / alternatives for holding the cocking switch back,  other than the RGG method with 3 pins?   

 

 

I’m sticking with ball & detent

[Cutter]

I’m also planning a safety under the cocking switch button.

[Sparky_NY]

 

I’m also planning a safety under the cocking switch button.

 

Interesting,    can\'t tell much from the pic though.

[Sparky_NY]

 

I’m sticking with ball & detent

 

I like that idea a LOT.    

[Sparky_NY]

 

I’m sticking with ball & detent

 

One more question       With the switch in the fire position, what prevents the switch from being \"pulled\" further forward by the sear/spring as the bolt moves forward?    Just the knob on the rear cover?     I would think the detent alone wouldn\'t be strong enough to prevent the switch from being pulled further forward during cocking.     Could be wrong again of course  LOL

[Stirlingking]

OK Bruski, chrome doesn\'t get me home, probably never has. I\'ve always liked to paint, polish,

or use stainless. 

I\'ve looked into home chrome plating but I don\'t remember what chemicals, or the cost of them.

I am spreading myself too thin trying to do everything in house.

With the number of steps: buff, plate, buff, plate, copper, nickel, chrome, I would send my parts out

if I really needed chrome.

Do you know about the kit sold by Eastman?  https://www.eastwood.com/ew-electroplating-system-tin-zinc.html\'>https://www.eastwood.com/ew-electroplating-system-tin-zinc.html

The result is definitely inferior to industrial hard chrome, a few steps down from show chrome (soft), but would

work well for small parts.

Everything in the kit can be found in my garage or hardware store. The expensive replacement anode is 25%/75%

zinc/ tin. I forget which is 75%. Many things are cast from zinc, lead free solder is 95% tin, which I never pay more

than a couple $ at garage sales.

Hope that answers your question. - Stirlingking

[Cutter]

One more question       With the switch in the fire position, what prevents the switch from being \"pulled\" further forward by the sear/spring as the bolt moves forward?    Just the knob on the rear cover?     I would think the detent alone wouldn\'t be strong enough to prevent the switch from being pulled further forward during cocking.     Could be wrong again of course  LOL

 

Yes Sir , 

The knob on the rear cover

 

The gap between the knob and plate in an uncocked

position is a good place for a safety

[Cutter]

Just weighed in at 30 lbs.

 

I have shit everywhere, I need to tidy up.

[bruski]

Mine is knocking on 60 pounds and it needs some wheels to move around any more. Thinking about attaching a couple of bicycle wheels to a 4 x 4 for a quick carriage.

 

 Stirlingking,

 Thanks for the information about plating and the shooting range.

 

bruski

[4171]

Yes Sir , 

The knob on the rear cover

 

The gap between the knob and plate in an uncocked

position is a good place for a safety

I’m thinking a safety is a good idea too!

[Cutter]

I’m thinking of set screws on the front barrel plate.

They would sure lock the barrels in.

What say Ye ?

[maccrazy2]

How about thin spanner nuts and a compression sleeve? However that’s would be much more work

[bruski]

Cutter,

 Set screws would be insurance during the heat of the battle.

 

bruski

[4171]

I’m thinking of set screws on the front barrel plate.

They would sure lock the barrels in.

What say Ye ?

[4171]

Messed that up. Cutter you thinking the barrels might unscrew?

[Sparky_NY]

I had planned on setscrews in the barrel plate.    Its good insurance and will stiffen the whole assembly.

[Cutter]

Messed that up. Cutter you thinking the barrels might unscrew?

 

No, don’t think so Mike

Like Sparky says , “ stiffens the whole assembly “

Help suck-up recoil too

[Cutter]

How about thin spanner nuts and a compression sleeve? However that’s would be much more work

 

Great idea, but as stated, “ much more work “

[Sparky_NY]

 

No, don’t think so Mikell

Like Sparky says , “ stiffens the whole assembly “

Help suck-up recoil too

 

I keep hearing about \"sucking up recoil\" and possible feed issues due to recoil.       With the weight of this gun, do you guys really think it will shake rattle and roll?     Smith makes a 2\" barrel scandium frame revolver,  model 340pd, that only weights 11.4 oz in 357 mag and of course its intended to be shot hand held !!!    With these gats somewhere north of 60 lbs I don\'t think the recoil effects will be any more than the 22lr version.

[bruski]

Sparky,

 It is more of shaking that is just right to dislodge a cartridge in the pan even un-hook them prematurely from the extractors if they are lightly held. If the whole assembly is bolted to a heavy table then most of it is absorbed. If the assembly is sitting on some wheels, it will shake. Just cranking the gun will move everything around a bit if not rock solid. There is no such reward recoil felt while firing from the few test fires that I have done with 38 specials.

 

bruski