Author Topic: New Member  (Read 8159 times)

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« Reply #20 on: December 14, 2011, 08:15:40 AM »
Steve,

How many guns are you building?  Looks like you have 3 of everything!  I think your bead blaster will clean the parts up OK.
Yes my barrels are tapered, my drawing shows them that way.  Congrats on your photo posting!  I need to work on mine, I don\'t know why the file comes through so large.

Frank

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« Reply #21 on: December 14, 2011, 02:07:52 PM »
[quote name=\"Roller\"]Steve,

Congrats on your photo posting!  I need to work on mine, I don\'t know why the file comes through so large.

Frank[/quote]

Frank,

I took the liberty of resizing your photo, if this is not what you want I can restore it.
 
I used MicroSoft PowerToys ImageResizer to resize the 5MB file to a 66KB file which lits a 1024 screen width.

gary

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« Reply #22 on: December 14, 2011, 02:50:41 PM »
Thank you Gary,

I have to learn to size my files so they don\'t come through so large.

Frank

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« Reply #23 on: December 15, 2011, 09:33:06 PM »
Roller,
I asked if the site administrator could help with you picture post.

I have enough parts for several guns.  Many of the parts have been machined for my experiments.

The site administrators have approved my idea of having a single catagory for the D&E gun.

My drawings are not clear as to the taper of the barrels.  The instructions do not mention a taper.  This is a good opportunity to correct the barrels.  I will offset the tail stock and re-cut all of the barrels.  I will use a shear finishing bit.  The finish will be black.

On your test fire, did you fire more than 9 out of ten?.

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« Reply #24 on: December 16, 2011, 08:06:08 AM »
It\'s nice to see a good conversation about the D&E. I\'ve still not managed to do any work on mine recently but it will happen soon. It started snowing today and it is COLD outside in the garage.

My plans showed a tapered barrel as well. It was a nightmare tapering them though. I did a write up about it somewhere. It think it may be on my build thread.

Sorry to hear about your acid problem. That sucks!

Keep up the good work!

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« Reply #25 on: December 18, 2011, 08:44:16 AM »
I am also building a DE gun, it is about 80% complete I would guess.  I am down to the bolts and firing components.   Having read everything I could find about the gun I became very worried when I read of all the misfires, extractor breakages, hard to crank, breaking off the soldered in bosses for the crank etc.   I also did not find a single gun that would fire repeatably.    So, this new thread and addressing the known issues is a welcome find.     I have not worked on my gun in about a year or so because I got sidetracked on home cnc retrofits but am going back to the gun very soon.

In my research here are the issues I found on the DE gun and ideas I have to correct them.  Firstly, I noticed the RG&G gun seems  to fire reliably so I looked at their plans for ideas and the possibilities of incorporating them into the DE gun internals.

Extractors:   The DE ones have no room for error, dirt etc. and are commonly broken off during firing.   First choice would
                  be a standard spring loaded extractor finger like the RG one, if it could be worked into the DE design.  
                  Nearly every commercial built gun out there uses a spring loaded finger method, for a reason no doubt.  
                  Second possibility would be a spring steel extractor that clips around the bolt, sort of like a pocket clip on a
                  point pen,  Marlin did this on many of their 22\'s.  I bought a Marlin part to look over for ideas.

Hard Cranking:   This is closely related to firing pin spring pressure which is widely known.  I put a 3 piece ball thrust
                      bearing recessed into the bolt carrier along with a ball bearing for the mainshaft in the cocking ring.  More
                      bearings are a possibility but harder to retrofit into a already built gun.

                      Have not looked closely at this yet but it appears the RG gun cam profiles are a LOT different than the DE
                      profiles.   The angles that the bolt lug is pulled up along with the transition into that angle would probably
                      effect cranking effort a lot I would think.   Perhaps, just perhaps a reshaping of the cam profiles would
                      make for a smoother running, easier to crank gun?  Look at the RG homepage, there is a cam image there.  
                      The bolt lug on the DE design runs into a sharp turn up the angle on the cam, the RG cam is much more
                      gradual, any wonder the DE gun cranks hard!

Firing Pins:      For reliable firing with the least spring pressure, non rotating pins with a properly shaped point are a must.
                     There is a lot of info out there on the proper shape of the point,  basically it should be shaped like a
                     exclamation point and tapered slightly.    Proper firing pin geometry will allow lighter springs which is highly
                     desireable.

Breaking off the Crank Bosses:     I have read several reports of people breaking off the silver soldered round bosses which t
                     the crank slides through.  This is no real surprise, its a pretty weak area and a lot of force can be applied.  
                     Again, a idea from the RG gun.   I am going to look into bolting on a brass piece to the cocking ring, bored
                     for the crankshaft to pass through and clearanced for the gear.   This would be a huge gain in support.

Lastly,  Would it be possible to stuff the RG gun internals into the DE gun housing?   Being able to disengage the firing pins would be a big plus.   The RG gun housing is larger in diameter but maybe with some redesign could be stuffed into the DE housing?????   That would be the best of both worlds.... the scale looks of the DE gun and the firing reliability of the RG gun.   Nobody ever tried this from what I have found looking around.

I\'m anxious to get back working on my gun and hope to brainstorm with others to get a reliable firing gun.

George

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« Reply #26 on: December 18, 2011, 09:16:24 AM »
[quote name=\"Sparky_NY\"]I am also building a DE gun, it is about 80% complete I would guess.  I am down to the bolts and firing components.   Having read everything I could find about the gun I became very worried when I read of all the misfires, extractor breakages, hard to crank, breaking off the soldered in bosses for the crank etc.   I also did not find a single gun that would fire repeatably.    So, this new thread and addressing the known issues is a welcome find.     I have not worked on my gun in about a year or so because I got sidetracked on home cnc retrofits but am going back to the gun very soon.

In my research here are the issues I found on the DE gun and ideas I have to correct them.  Firstly, I noticed the RG&G gun seems  to fire reliably so I looked at their plans for ideas and the possibilities of incorporating them into the DE gun internals.

Extractors:   The DE ones have no room for error, dirt etc. and are commonly broken off during firing.   First choice would
                  be a standard spring loaded extractor finger like the RG one, if it could be worked into the DE design.  
                  Second possibility would be a spring steel extractor that clips around the bolt, sort of like a pocket clip on a
                  point pen,  Marlin did this on many of their 22\'s.  I bought a Marlin part to look over for ideas.

Hard Cranking:   This is closely related to firing pin spring pressure which is widely known.  I put a 3 piece ball thrust
                      bearing recessed into the bolt carrier along with a ball bearing for the mainshaft in the cocking ring.  More
                      bearings are a possibility but harder to retrofit into a already built gun.

                      Have not looked closely at this yet but it appears the RG gun cam profiles are a LOT different than the DE
                      profiles.   The angles that the bolt lug is pulled up along with the transition into that angle would probably
                      effect cranking effort a lot I would think.   Perhaps, just perhaps a reshaping of the cam profiles would
                      make for a smoother running, easier to crank gun?  Look at the RG homepage, there is a cam image there.  
                      The bolt lug on the DE design runs into a sharp turn up the angle on the cam, the RG cam is much more
                      gradual, any wonder the DE gun cranks hard!

Firing Pins:      For reliable firing with the least spring pressure, non rotating pins with a properly shaped point are a must.
                     There is a lot of info out there on the proper shape of the point,  basically it should be shaped like a
                     exclamation point and tapered slightly.    Proper firing pin geometry will allow lighter springs which is highly
                     desireable.

Breaking off the Crank Bosses:     I have read several reports of people breaking off the silver soldered round bosses which t
                     the crank slides through.  This is no real surprise, its a pretty weak area and a lot of force can be applied.  
                     Again, a idea from the RG gun.   I am going to look into bolting on a brass piece to the cocking ring, bored
                     for the crankshaft to pass through and clearanced for the gear.   This would be a huge gain in support.

Lastly,  Would it be possible to stuff the RG gun internals into the DE gun housing?   Being able to disengage the firing pins would be a big plus.   The RG gun housing is larger in diameter but maybe with some redesign could be stuffed into the DE housing?????   That would be the best of both worlds.... the scale looks of the DE gun and the firing reliability of the RG gun.   Nobody ever tried this from what I have found looking around.

I\'m anxious to get back working on my gun and hope to brainstorm with others to get a reliable firing gun.

George[/quote]

There\'s a guy in the thread linked below that built a Gatling with RG-G internals and D&E externals.
http://members3.boardhost.com/gatchat/msg/1261200002.html

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« Reply #27 on: December 18, 2011, 10:15:45 AM »
That is interesting!   It appears the decision to build a hybrid gun was done prior to starting.  He mentions the gun is 1/2 scale which is what the RG gun is I believe,  the DE gun is about 1/3 scale.   The RG internals would fit if planned from the beginning such as that fellow did.   What I am wondering is if it would be possible, with some redesign of course, to put a version of RG internals into a DE gun that is already nealy done, in its original dimensions (1/3 scale).  Althernately, and more realistic, would be to just use some features of the RG internals into a modified DE gun, such as cam profile, extractor design and internal support block for crankshaft.

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« Reply #28 on: December 18, 2011, 03:16:15 PM »
Well my floating firing pins are working well and I was able to use .026 springs which reduced my cranking pressure from 40 to 45 inch pounds to 20 to 25 inch pounds.  Loaded 15 rounds in the magazine and managed to fire 12 till an extraction failure stopped me.  My #8 barrel has been giving me problems with the shell sticking.  I will polish the chamber a little more and try again.  All things considered I am making headway!  Phone books are taking a beating though.

Frank

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« Reply #29 on: December 18, 2011, 08:01:21 PM »
[quote name=\"Roller\"]Well my floating firing pins are working well and I was able to use .026 springs which reduced my cranking pressure from 40 to 45 inch pounds to 20 to 25 inch pounds.  Loaded 15 rounds in the magazine and managed to fire 12 till an extraction failure stopped me.  My #8 barrel has been giving me problems with the shell sticking.  I will polish the chamber a little more and try again.  All things considered I am making headway!  Phone books are taking a beating though.

Frank[/quote]

Your results sound good Frank.   Can you give more details on how you implemented floating firing pins?  If you shaped the pin end, how did you prevent them from rotating?  Do you have anything to retract the firing pin back from the bolt face when no cartridge is present?  If they just free float I would think it possible for them to work forward and stop a rim from seating on the bolt face/extractor.   Any comments on the extraction failures you are having?   Extraction problems and even breakage of the extractor hooks are extremely common with the DE gun.

George

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« Reply #30 on: December 19, 2011, 08:58:32 PM »
[quote name=\"Sparky_NY\"]
[quote name=\"Roller\"]Well my floating firing pins are working well and I was able to use .026 springs which reduced my cranking pressure from 40 to 45 inch pounds to 20 to 25 inch pounds.  Loaded 15 rounds in the magazine and managed to fire 12 till an extraction failure stopped me.  My #8 barrel has been giving me problems with the shell sticking.  I will polish the chamber a little more and try again.  All things considered I am making headway!  Phone books are taking a beating though.

Frank[/quote]

Your results sound good Frank.   Can you give more details on how you implemented floating firing pins?  If you shaped the pin end, how did you prevent them from rotating?  Do you have anything to retract the firing pin back from the bolt face when no cartridge is present?  If they just free float I would think it possible for them to work forward and stop a rim from seating on the bolt face/extractor.   Any comments on the extraction failures you are having?   Extraction problems and even breakage of the extractor hooks are extremely common with the DE gun.

George[/quote]

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« Reply #31 on: December 20, 2011, 03:02:47 AM »
I have always felt that the firing problem is caused by the combination of too much friction at three points,
the bolt lug as it first hits the cam,
the end of the firing pin as it rotates through the cocking ring,
and the spring used to overcome these.
Using the torque wrench we can test solutions.
The floating firing pin seems to work and reduces the spring pressure.  The non rotating firing pin seems to lessen misfires.  The shape of the pin end can be properly shaped.
There are several ways to lessen the friction at the end of the firing pin, using a bearing, using a circular liner bearing.
There should be a way to lessen the lug friction by using a bearing or a different material with less friction than steel on steel, or a smoother transition on the cam.
By combining all of these into a redesigned bolt and firing pin that will use the same outward dimensions it seems we may be able to solve the firing problem.  This will also solve the breaking of the crank bosses.
Then the extractor problem.  I have several ideas for extracting but want to deal with the firing first.

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« Reply #32 on: December 20, 2011, 08:38:41 AM »
[quote name=\"Sparky_NY\"]
[quote name=\"Roller\"]Well my floating firing pins are working well and I was able to use .026 springs which reduced my cranking pressure from 40 to 45 inch pounds to 20 to 25 inch pounds.  Loaded 15 rounds in the magazine and managed to fire 12 till an extraction failure stopped me.  My #8 barrel has been giving me problems with the shell sticking.  I will polish the chamber a little more and try again.  All things considered I am making headway!  Phone books are taking a beating though.

Frank[/quote]

Your results sound good Frank.   Can you give more details on how you implemented floating firing pins?  If you shaped the pin end, how did you prevent them from rotating?  Do you have anything to retract the firing pin back from the bolt face when no cartridge is present?  If they just free float I would think it possible for them to work forward and stop a rim from seating on the bolt face/extractor.   Any comments on the extraction failures you are having?   Extraction problems and even breakage of the extractor hooks are extremely common with the DE gun.

George[/quote]
George,
The firing pins look like a big nail, .086 diameter with a .300 diameter head that is .125 thick.  This pin floats in the forward section of the bolt and is kept from rotating by a small pin that is pressed into the head of the pin.  Bolt has a small slot milled into it that allows fore and aft movement.  Former firing pin guide bushing is still retained and now becomes a striker/hammer that impacts the headed firing pin.  Firing pin face is now shaped to a .025 x .086 rectangle which reduces surface area more than 50%.  Firing has been 100% with this setup.  Extraction is still iffy, my extractors are showing cracks after 175 shots through the gun.  I am working on beefing up the extractor hooks right now.

Frank

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« Reply #33 on: December 20, 2011, 09:53:52 AM »
I had to harden the tip of the firing pins and the extractor end of the bolt.

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« Reply #34 on: December 20, 2011, 04:06:59 PM »

Extraction is still iffy, my extractors are showing cracks after 175 shots through the gun. I am working on beefing up the extractor hooks right now.


Frank




Even though I realize that it is not prototypical, perhaps the D&E Bolts could be fitted with a RG style Spring Loaded Extractor. I pulled the plans on both bolts and I believe that there may be sufficent room to machine a pocket for the Extractor Hook and Spring Pocket in the D&E Bolt after scaling the sizes appropriately. The extractor would be pretty small, likely 0.093\" wide but I have have some .22 pistols that were in this range.


There was also a flat spring Extractor Detail floating around a year or so ago. This was made from flat stock and wrapped around the the outside of the bolt in a groove cut specifically for it. I will try to fine the details again and add here.


The Hook machined into the top of the bolt face on the D&E Guns would appear to be fairly \"Dainty\" and I assume that this is the area that is showing cracks. It would be frustrating to scrap all the time that goes into a bolt if this Hook were to break off. The Spring Loaded Style Extractor may also be a \"fix\" to salvage bolts if the D&E Hook were to seperate from the bolt face.



nitewatchman


 


[attachment=9514:D&E with RG Extractor-id=587.jpg]

« Last Edit: December 24, 2014, 04:19:43 PM by Dave »

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« Reply #35 on: December 20, 2011, 04:54:31 PM »
[quote name=\"nitewatchman\"]
[quote name=\"Roller\"]  Extraction is still iffy, my extractors are showing cracks after 175 shots through the gun.  I am working on beefing up the extractor hooks right now.

Frank[/quote]

Even though I realize that it is not prototypical, perhaps the D&E Bolts could be fitted with a RG style Spring Loaded Extractor. I pulled the plans on both bolts and I believe that there may be sufficent room to machine a pocket for the Extractor Hook and Spring Pocket in the D&E Bolt after scaling the sizes appropriately. The extractor would be pretty small, likely 0.093\" wide but I have have some .22 pistols that were in this range.  

There was also a flat spring Extractor Detail floating around a year or so ago. This was made from flat stock and wrapped around the the outside of the bolt in a groove cut specifically for it. I will try to fine the details again and add here.


nitewatchman[/quote]

I just posted those same exact ideas a couple days ago here.  As for the flat spring extractor, Marlin used one exactly like you describe for years in their 22s.  I bought a marlin one to look over, the diameter of their bolt is larger of course so a copy part would have to be made up in sizes suitable for the DE bolt.   1095 spring steel is available annealed from Brownells for making springs and would work well for this.

Here is what the Marlin extractor that clips around the bolt looks like    http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Det ... 0A&catid=0

Personally, I like a spring extractor finger better.   I had not looked if one could possibly fit into the DE bolt but I see you have and I am excited.   Along with curing extractor breakage, a spring finger is also tolerant of slight misalignments and dirt as well.   This would be a huge improvement to the DE gun.  

I am not going to get back working on my gun for probably another month yet.  I am retrofitting my 14x40 lathe to cnc right now which will take couple weeks yet to finish, then I have a auto tool turret to make and install.  I am axnious to get back at the gun though, its about 80% complete.

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« Reply #36 on: December 20, 2011, 07:30:46 PM »
[quote name=\"nitewatchman\"]
[quote name=\"Roller\"]  Extraction is still iffy, my extractors are showing cracks after 175 shots through the gun.  I am working on beefing up the extractor hooks right now.

Frank[/quote]

Even though I realize that it is not prototypical, perhaps the D&E Bolts could be fitted with a RG style Spring Loaded Extractor. I pulled the plans on both bolts and I believe that there may be sufficent room to machine a pocket for the Extractor Hook and Spring Pocket in the D&E Bolt after scaling the sizes appropriately. The extractor would be pretty small, likely 0.093\" wide but I have have some .22 pistols that were in this range.  

There was also a flat spring Extractor Detail floating around a year or so ago. This was made from flat stock and wrapped around the the outside of the bolt in a groove cut specifically for it. I will try to fine the details again and add here.

The Hook machined into the top of the bolt face on the D&E Guns would appear to be fairly \"Dainty\" and I assume that this is the area that is showing cracks. It would be frustrating to scrap all the time that goes into a bolt if this Hook were to break off. The Spring Loaded Style Extractor may also be a \"fix\" to salvage bolts if the D&E Hook were to seperate from the bolt face.  


nitewatchman[/quote]
You have and excellent idea and I have considered the same solution, however I used the grooved breech ring and by doing so have removed a significant portion of my chamber.  The originally designed extractor actually fills this area and supports the shell casing.  Not wanting to weld up my barrels I am going a different route.  I am experimenting with one bolt right now by milling off the extractor lug and silver soldering on a chunk of O1 steel and then turning it oversize to increase the extractor wall thickness to .027 vs .007.  Not pretty but functional.  

Frank

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« Reply #37 on: December 21, 2011, 08:07:24 AM »
[/quote]
You have and excellent idea and I have considered the same solution, however I used the grooved breech ring and by doing so have removed a significant portion of my chamber.  The originally designed extractor actually fills this area and supports the shell casing.  Not wanting to weld up my barrels I am going a different route.  I am experimenting with one bolt right now by milling off the extractor lug and silver soldering on a chunk of O1 steel and then turning it oversize to increase the extractor wall thickness to .027 vs .007.  Not pretty but functional.  

Frank[/quote]

I am a little confused my your proposed fix.   If you solder on and turn the new extractor oversize to get a larger wall thickness in the groove area, I would think that would create clearance issues.   The od of the orig extractor hook is the same as the bolt, if it were larger it would not retract into the bolt carrier ???  (unless clearance groove cut into bolt carrier).  Also, the increased od may not clear in the groove at the barrel ring???    Am I missing something?  That 0rig .007 wall at the rim groove is a huge problem for everyone, sooner or later.

George

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« Reply #38 on: December 21, 2011, 08:32:27 AM »
George,

If you look and the end view of the bolt face on the print, or the actual bolt in the carrier, you will see what I mean.  The .275 bolt diameter runs tangent to the .4375 bolt diameter and there is no room to add material there.  Now look at the space directly above the center of the extractor, this is the thickest (.007 LOL) part of the extractor and there is room to add material.  I have milled off the extractor, silver soldered a piece of tool steel on and turned the end of the bolt to .315 diameter, this has to be done in a four jaw chuck because the bolt won\'t fit into the fixture at this point.  After turning you have lug on the end of the bolt.   Next I file fit the .315 diameter tangent to the original .275 diameter on the one side of the bolt using the bolt machining fixture as a guage.  You don\'t pick up any extra material on the tangent side but you gain .020 at the top of the extractor and the side opposite the tangent edge.  Acually there is room for more material than .020 but the more you add the more fitting required.  I figured that .020 would give me .027 at the thickest section and that should be sufficient since it is nearly 4 times as much material as there was originally.  Maybe .010 per side would even work.

Frank

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« Reply #39 on: December 21, 2011, 07:33:38 PM »
ALL,

Ran the gun today after cleaning an got 20 shots in succesion fed from the magazine!  Need to buy more ammo.

Frank