So far so good.

A company called cal-tron plating in California. Brett charged me 10 dollars a barrel so a total of 100$. When I recieved them back from chroming they looked to have what looked like rust on then so I did some research online and found out that sanding them with aluminum foil would take it right off. So I got them all cleaned up an looking nice

[quote name=\"droes11\"]A company called cal-tron plating in California. Brett charged me 10 dollars a barrel so a total of 100$. When I recieved them back from chroming they looked to have what looked like rust on then so I did some research online and found out that sanding them with aluminum foil would take it right off. So I got them all cleaned up an looking nice[/quote]

Thanks, I\'ll keep that in mind. It\'ll be a while before I can afford the barrel material so I\'m making what I can with what material I have on hand.
Started on the mount last weekend.

That looks fantastic.  Will really be a show piece once it is all done.

As for barrels material, I used Ruger 10/22 factory barrels that I bought off people that replaced the standard factory ones with bull barrels.  Was cheaper and easier for me to go this route then trying to source barrel liners.  Think I bought 9 barrels from one person.  Think it worked out to be around $30 a barrel.  Just another option for you.  

Finished the elevation components today, other than cutting the key slot in the screw. I plan on using oil-lite bronze thrust washers rather than bearings as I already have the oil-lite bar stock.  The threaded rod is 1/2\"-20, again because I already had some.

The woodwork for my carriage is underway, thought I\'d start on the hardware with what I have on hand.

Wow, I can hardley wait to see some finished guns from you guys. Did you turn your hand wheel from solid round stock or cast it?
bruski

[quote name=\"bruski\"]Wow, I can hardley wait to see some finished guns from you guys. Did you turn your hand wheel from solid round stock or cast it?
bruski[/quote]

I turned it from round stock.

I was going to make my yoke from brass, but I just couldn\'t see spending $100.00 for one part. I made it from cold roll instead, and parkerized the parts on my kitchen stove. I\'m leaning towards my barrels being parkerized as well.

Looks great! I\'m working on those parts also, I just hope mine turn out as nice as yours!

I have a small stash of sintered(oil-lite) bronze barstock to work with so I\'ve opted to turn my own thrust bearings for the yoke and elevation nut rather than use the Torrington bearings suggested in the plans. They both turn nice and smooth.
 I may go this route for the mainshaft thrust bearings also.

[quote name=\"my65pan\"]I was going to make my yoke from brass, but I just couldn\'t see spending $100.00 for one part. I made it from cold roll instead, and parkerized the parts on my kitchen stove. I\'m leaning towards my barrels being parkerized as well.

[/quote]

The Parkerizing looks good, could you share how you did it?

nitewatchman

[quote name=\"my65pan\"]I have a small stash of sintered(oil-lite) bronze barstock to work with so I\'ve opted to turn my own thrust bearings for the yoke and elevation nut rather than use the Torrington bearings suggested in the plans. They both turn nice and smooth.
 I may go this route for the mainshaft thrust bearings also.

[/quote]

For those that don\'t have the oil-lite stock or want to use the roller bearings, I found KVAL (http://store.kvalinc.com/storefront.aspx) to be a good source of the Torrington Bearings. For example the NTA-815 is $1.95 and the TRA-815 is $1.32 (requires 2). The NTA-1220 $2.90 is and the TRA-1220 is $1.52 (and again requires 2).

Bearings are in stock and delivery is fairly quick.

nitewatchman

Parkerizing kits available at eb#y. All you need is a sand blaster,de-greasing chemicals and a heat source with a thermometer.
bruski

What do you spray on your brass to protect the finish? I tried spraying a piece on mine with spray lacquer but it bubbled up and I had to take it off.

I bought my parkerizing chemicals from Shootersolutions.com. Like bruski said, I blasted the parts with aluminum oxide, cleaned them real good with acetone, and dropped them in the solution at 190 degrees F. until they stopped bubbling, a quick rinse in hot water, and then I rubbed them down with cosmoline. I used an old stainless pot on my stove, but I have a poaching pan and a two burner hotplate to do the barrels with. Brownwlls sells the chemicals also, and they have an online tutorial.
As far as the brass goes, I don\'t put anything on it. Once the gun is complete I\'ll just let it age to a nice patina.

I picture is worth a thousand words. The product I used, and the finish I achieved. This photo, in natural light, gives a better representation of the color. I blasted both parts with 70 grit aluminum oxide from Harbor Frieght @ around 90psi.

After a succesful sidetrack into model steam engines it\'s time to get back to the Gatling. This is my set-up for cutting the cam slot, I\'ll post more pics when I have time to actually machine the slot.

Lots of Machining Pics Please!!!!

Matt :mrgreen:

Well, I had a little time today so I started working on the breech casing to cam mounting holes. I started with the four holes that also hold the side rails to the breech casing prior to silver solder. The first thing I did was indicate the fixture in for top dead center. Once the cam was mounted I found center, indexed to 90 degrees, picked up one end, and then moved .305 in the \"X\" axis from the breech end of the cam and over .125 in the \"Y\" axis to drill and tap the first hole, moved to 2.18 in the \"X\" axis and did the same to the second hole. Then I rotated to 270 degrees, moved the \"Y\" .125 the other side of center and did the other side.


Once that was done I assembled the cam into the breech case, mounted it all back up on the fixture and drilled the remaining eight holes as an assembly.


This method should make it easy to re-install once the cam is cut into two halves.


I set up to cut the cam path, but the numbers I got from someone on the board(can\'t remember who I got them from) don\'t seem to jibe with the plans even if I switch 180 degrees from TDC. Can anyone plot the tool path by degrees from TDC?

Nevermind, I sat down and plotted the toolpath this morning. I went the opposite direction around the cam as the print calls out because the dial on my indexer is counterclockwise.
 The problem with the numbers I had before was that the bolts would be in battery 6 degrees sooner than called for and be drawn to the rearmost position 6 degrees later than called for. I\'m not sure this would have caused problems, but better safe than sorry.