So far so good.

I finally felt like I had enough progress to start a thread on my own build. Milling, drilling, and tapping the bolt bodies, and silver soldering the components are up next. Who is a good source for the hammer and extractor springs?

I made a little more progress this week, still haven\'t milled the bolts yet though.

Looking good. bruski

I bought most of my springs from Reid Supply.

Parts is parts. I opted to mill the extractors all at once from a piece of 1-1/2\" X 1/8\" 416 stainless. I used a .020 slitting saw to part them off.

I realize I\'m sort of jumping around making parts for different assemblies before I get any assemblies finished, but I\'m working with what material I can scrounge for now. I do have brass ordered for the breech casing, mag base, side rails, etc. though. I got this much done over the last few days, but it\'s hotter than hell in my garage here in Phoenix to do much more.
I machined the bore and mounting surfaces of the front bearing support and then did the profile by hand on a Burr King belt sander and a soft abrasive wheel mounted to the bench grinder. I added the holes to attach it to the rails last. It came out better than I imagined it would.

I was in Phoenix on Monday and Tuesday this week. Left there and went to Tucson and on to Sacramento. I will attest to it being hot.

nitewatchman

Your parts are looking great, I wish I could work better in the heat here in Yuma. My machine shop/office/dog house is air conditioned sort of as it never turns itself off on these hot days.
bruski

I managed to get a the magazine base plates, a magazine, the hinge block and pin, and the sights done this week.

Dangggg!  You have been a busy little bee.  

Parts are looking great.  Wish I would be as far along as you.

Wish i was that far along to. Your parts do look great. I don\'t know how some of you guys do it. I\'m going to have to start posting some pictures when i get more parts made.
Where do you get all of that nice looking brass!

I really need to get working more on mine. Yours look great and you are making much better time than me. But in my defense, after I bought the plans, I bought my first lathe and mill so I am self teaching myself machining as I go. I need to finish the bolts I have started and save to order the tooling and metal for some of the other parts.

I worked on some fixturing this week. The box cam fixture has a .500 pin to clock the bolt extractor slot at 15 degrees, the flat at the rear is an indicating surface to establish TDC. I plan on plunge cutting with a 3/16\" endmill, withdrawing the cutter, indexing the fixture one degree, repositioning, then plunge cutting again, etc., etc. until I have two halves. I\'ll have to dress the cam surfaces, but this is the only way I can do it with the equipment at my disposal.  

 I also cut a small block to support the bolts while milling the extractor slots and drilling for the pins. I forgot to put it in the photo.  

Also, I came up with the idea to pin my cocking ring halves together to add a little more insurance against them coming apart, you can just see the holes in the photo.

Slick idea.

While you have it jigged up and aligned you could also drill and tap the 8 holes used to bolt the cam box to the breech casing.  Once the cam halves are split it is abit more difficult to ensure these holes are in the correct location.  Just and idea.  

[quote name=\"TheJackal\"]Slick idea.

While you have it jigged up and aligned you could also drill and tap the 8 holes used to bolt the cam box to the breech casing.  Once the cam halves are split it is abit more difficult to ensure these holes are in the correct location.  Just and idea.  [/quote]

I plan on drilling and tapping the four holes that go through the side rails, breech casing, and box cam, using them to align everything, and then, using the same fixture, drilling and tapping the other eight holes as an assembly. You just have to remember that the rail holes are offset .125 towards the top to keep the rails on center. The breech casing already has the rail holes as these were easy to position without making another fixture.

[quote name=\"my65pan\"]I worked on some fixturing this week. The box cam fixture has a .500 pin to clock the bolt extractor slot at 15 degrees, the flat at the rear is an indicating surface to establish TDC. I plan on plunge cutting with a 3/16\" endmill, withdrawing the cutter, indexing the fixture one degree, repositioning, then plunge cutting again, etc., etc. until I have two halves. I\'ll have to dress the cam surfaces, but this is the only way I can do it with the equipment at my disposal. [/quote]
Outstanding idea, beats the way I was going to approach it.

nitewatchman

[quote name=\"my65pan\"]I finally felt like I had enough progress to start a thread on my own build. Milling, drilling, and tapping the bolt bodies, and silver soldering the components are up next. Who is a good source for the hammer and extractor springs?

[/quote]

this isnt my idea but i wish it was, i got my springs for my extractor and a spring to push the firing pin back inside the bolt while the shell is being pushed into the chamber( just a safety issue) from lighters, i went out and bought 10 of the cheapest lighters i could buy and took them apart, there is two different springs in each lighter one long skinny one to push the flint up to the wheel to spark the  lighter and one that pushes up the little red thing that you push down to send the butane out of the lighter. the little one that pushes up the red thing is just over .060 so it fits your firing pins nicely and would work for your extractor spring also

I received the tubing for my magazine base the other day so I finished the components up. The tubing sprang open about 3/8\" when I cut the first side so the radius wasn\'t a good fit to the breech casing or the side plates.
I just put it in the vise and counted my turns as I squished it. The first try wasn\'t quite enough so I gave it an extra half turn on the second try, etc. until I had a nice fit again.
I used a .020 slitting saw so the other half of the tube could still be used for another base if a fellow hid the combined .040 gap on the hinge side.