Author Topic: Springs  (Read 2349 times)

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Springs
« on: March 18, 2010, 08:14:15 PM »
Anyone have a source for the springs used in the RGG gun?  I have spring wire to wind them but I\'d rather spend my time making chips since I think I\'m going to be at this a very long time.  Failing that, tips on winding the springs.  

Thanks,

Clutch

  • Guest
Springs
« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2010, 09:38:16 PM »
I got my springs for the bolts form Paul Moor, of RG-G. I used AR15 detent springs for the extractors on the bolt. you have to cut them down to size.

  • Guest
Springs
« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2010, 12:13:00 PM »
I was told by a man that built a RG-G gun that he used 1/8\" o-ring material for the extractor springs. He said he had shot his gun alot and they work great. He is going to be coming to visit relatives this summer that live near me and I\'ll get to see for myself how they work.
Bill

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Springs
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2010, 08:08:30 PM »
O-ring material does work, and very well too!  It also allows a shallower hole to be drilled. Trim the rubber even with the OD of the bolt body.  A little experimenting will determine the best operation.
Dick C. (gatguy)  :)

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Springs
« Reply #4 on: March 29, 2010, 02:20:20 PM »
In reply to your spring query, I get springs from Grainger\'s.  Spring #1NCD8 is about the same as RGG, I use #1NCD6 which have a .038 dia. wire instead of .045 dia.  I also use a slight \'chisel\' point on the firing pins which seem to work well with the lighter wire.  This gives an easier turning gun as well especially if you shorten the springs by a turn or so to take most of the preload off them.  Again, just do some experimenting with various set-ups to get the best results.
Dick C. (gatguy)  :)

  • Guest
Springs
« Reply #5 on: March 30, 2010, 12:10:20 AM »
Dick
Thanks for the spring information, I have looked almost everywhere for a slightly less powerful spring I didn\'t think to look at Grainger. This should do the trick.  :D

  • Guest
Springs
« Reply #6 on: April 15, 2010, 09:41:11 PM »
I get my springs from old Bic Lighters, just what I need and easy to get. I bought 5 of them for one dollar just for the springs.

  • Guest
Springs
« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2010, 06:39:35 PM »
dburn, I was referring to the mainsprings (for the firing pin/hammer group) not the extractor springs.  As a non-smoker I\'m not sure what a Bic lighter spring looks like, so will take your word for it.
Dick C. (gatguy) :D

  • Guest
Springs
« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2010, 09:44:06 AM »
gatguy,
I ordered a set of springs from Moore I wish I had read this first. You said you grind a chisel point on the firing pins. Don\'t they rotate with use? I bought a set of pins also from Paul.
Bill

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Springs
« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2010, 01:20:33 PM »
beginner, yes, they are free to rotate but as they rotate about the axis of the pin they always strike the case rim, and the center is where your firing pin protrusion is measured.  I have examined many of the fired cases and they are all well hit; the purpose of the slight \'chisel-edge\' merely allows the firing pin to penetrate a bit with the slightly weaker main spring, it still speads over the whole diameter of the pin.  This is only a slight angle, maybe only 2º to 3º per side at the most.  Try it first without the angle, I only had a few soft hits with the flat ends when I first started using the .038 dia. wire so I decided to reduce the area of the initial firing pin impact....and have never had a \'soft\' strike since.  These firing pins are available from Reid or MSC and are just mold knockouts; they can be purchased either soft or hardened, I buy about 30 or 40 at a time.
Maybe you should stick to the plans as written for now, always time to experiment later
Dick C. (gatguy)
 :D