Restarting an old project

I dusted off the pieces of my RG-G gun I started about 13 years ago.  I built one functioning gun for someone else, but ran into a few issues and am going to remake a few components.  I have two partially complete sets of prints and am currently trying to get a fresh set as I don\'t have everything.  I see on the RG-G forum it typically takes a while to get in contact with Paul Moore, so I will keep trying.  

I have been browsing the site and seen lots of cool ideas for the extractors, etc.  My first order of business is to remake the carrier block as the drill wandered on me and resulted in the holes not being square all the way down.  I am considering re-making the bolts as I am unhappy with the finish I achieved, and also don\'t like the way the extractor slot breaks into the firing pin hole.  

Like many of you, this is a strictly spare time type of project, but I hope to get re-started on it again soon.  

Does anyone have a set of plans for a tripod?  I like the compactness and portability of a tripod mount, but want something that looks appropriate for the gun.

Welcome, we have some VERY creative people on the forum and a great source of assistance.

nitewatchman

Here are a few pics of the first one I made.  I didn\'t make the carriage.

rayhawk,

You may have the latest version.
I\'ve not heard of any changes to the drawings in many years.
Maybe since 2000 ?

The D&E gatling gun plans come with plans for a very nice tripod.  The D&E website has some pictures of the tripod.

I am getting ready to work on the carrier block, I noticed the old drawings call for a .272\" reamed hole, the new plans call for a .281\" hole.  I already have a .272\" reamer.  Is there a significant reason for this change?  The rim of the .22 shell is about .274\". Perhaps it was cutting it a bit close and may lead to some difficulty?

Well, I found a .281\" reamer, so I drilled all the holes.  I did them all in the mill, but I still had issues with the holes wandering on me.  What procedure do you guys use to drill these deep holes in the carrier block.  This is what I did:

1. Assemble the machined parts, carrier block, front and rear barrel plates with a .374\" pin through the .375\" reamed hole in the center.
2. Zero the carrier block in the indexing head.
3. Drill for the dowel pin, install dowel pin to prevent shifting during machining.
4. center drill, stub drill .265\" diameter with a standard positive rake drill thru the front and rear barrel plates.
5. drill as deep as possible through the stack (about 3\" deep) with a zero rake .265\" diameter drill.  
6. Repeat steps 4&5 for all 10 holes.
7. Remove barrel plates, finish drill .265, drill .272, then ream .281 thru each hole.

The carrier block was not removed from the indexing head until all holes were drilled and reamed .281.  I still had some wandering of the bit.  My plan now was to flip the carrier block, re-zero on the center & on the straightest hole, then use an endmill to open the holes to .375, then open them up to the .420\" dimension.  

How do you guys do it?  If I had to do it again, I think I would flip it the other way and drill a .405\" or so diameter, then drill thru the assembly with an extended length .265\" drill to minimize the length the small bit has to drill.  Then ream .281 thru, then ream the .420 size to the appropriate depth.

rayhawk,
I make them in two pieces (1.25 & 1.75 ) and bore them.
held together with two 3/16 dowel pins ( slip fit to light press )
They are clamped together at assembly.

Good luck

I make the carrier block in two pieces and bore the holes with a  small solid carbide boring bar. Much easier to keep the holes straight, in line and on size. I use a counterbore/socket and an alignment pin between the two components to lock them together.

nitewatchman