Furr Gatling manual or assembly/disassembly instructions?

Hello!

I\'m new to the site, though I\'ve been lurking for a while now.

I\'m in the process of cleaning up and readying an old 1/3 scale Furr 1874 gatling for range use.  It hasn\'t been fired in 25-30 years, and all the brass needs repolishing (someone polished it, but left polish in the cracks, where it turned white and hardened, making life hard).  I\'m about halfway to 2/3 done cleaning up all the brass. (MAAS metal polish is awesome!)

I was wondering if anyone here has access to an original manual or instruction sheet, or better yet, some instructions on how to disassemble the whole gun itself.

The barrels really need a good cleaning- the .22 short gatling barrels were all in the white.  If I\'m able to remove them, we may try and get them plated for corrosion resistance (but in a finish which resembles the original white steel).   The outside is easy enough to clean, but I\'d like to clean the underside, which is not visible.   The 10 barrels are pretty tightly packed in the Furr guns, so you can\'t really get to the underside of the barrel or the center spindle.

Thanks in advance!

-Dave

Hope that all is going well with this project. Pics would be great.

Later 42rocker

HI Saki302,
 Take lots of pictures while disassembling the gun and you shouldn\'t have any problems putting it back together again. If the barrels are cut with a hex on the end, use a socket to remove them after you remove the bolts first of course and make sure everything is marked 1 through 10 etc.
bruski

Thanks guys,   the barrel removal procedure was exactly what I wanted to know!

I am hoping to have them thinly plated- either in a (more silver) nickel type finish or brushed hard chrome.   I think I have cleaned up most of the rusting for now (surface rust), but it\'s very hard to care for bare unblued steel.    Unless there\'s some way to treat or care for the unblued steel better than what I\'ve tried so far (high end gun oil, grease, silicone cloth are all so-so).

I did figure out how to pull the bolts by reading a manual for a full size gatling.  It\'s amazing how true to scale the Furr guns are.

I\'ll get my progress pics posted to photobucket when I\'m back in town.   I did manage to find the correct square drive bits to remove all the screws and bolts one at a time to clean and polish around them.   The first owner used polish but did not clean it all up around some of the bolts, which left a white crusty substance in the crevices.  All of that is gone now

My one oh SH$#@ moment came when I removed one wheel hub and all the spokes popped off.   I was able to get it reassembled, but the spokes are under tension.   It took all of my 250# frame and hand strength to get it back together, all the while praying a spoke doesn\'t snap!  I suspect Mr. Furr had a jig for this...

I think I will let it naturally age to the duller gold brass finish again, but without the fingerprints and white gunk present.   I like that look more than the gleaming white gold of a fresh polish.

I\'m really looking forward to shooting this..  I\'ve wanted to fire one for as long as I can remember

Does anyone know if they ever made a transit box for these?   The carriage is all set up for a quick disassembly.

Glad to hear that you did not break a spoke. Keep up the good work and looking forward to those pics.

Later 42rocker

I put up the photos on photobucket:
http://s1028.photobucket.com/user/saki3 ... sort=2&o=0

Click through the photos, they go from oldest to newest.

I\'ll get some better pics later when I take it out to shoot for the first time

Story is it was only test fired in Orem UT, then used as a display piece for 3 decades.  Looking at the internals, I believe it.   The barrels were dusty inside, and one had a cobweb in it!

I\'m trying to let the brass matte and dull evenly to the nice deep gold color over time again (minus the white polish crap).   I\'m trying to not use polish anymore, just wipe off fingerprints with a dry cloth.

-Dave

I am amazed how similar the Furr gun resembles the D&E gun, right down to the bolt faces with the extractor hooks and the blunt round firing pins.     It would sure be interesting to compare the two designs.   Perhaps some ideas for the D&E gun to function better could be found.

I have been searching the net this morning for more info on the Furr gatling guns and found this newspaper story that tells the Furr story.    

http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=3 ... 49,5464759

What a super job that was done building this Gatling and What a great job that you have done restoring this Gatling!
NICE JOB!!
Thanks for sharing those pics with us.

Later 42rocker

I can\'t take any credit for the build-  this one was done by Karl Furr, one of the oldies.

The level of detail is awesome- pretty much an exact scale replica of the original.    He made cannons too, complete with miniature water bucket and brush!

Someday I\'d like to build a basic tripod and transit case for it, I\'d hate to scuff the carriage taking it to the range! (when this is shot, I\'ll bring a beach towel to set it on).

-Dave

Saki302 / Dave,

I sure would love to see some pictures of some of the guns internal parts, especially the bolts.

   Your Furr seems nearly identical to the D&E gun which I am building.   The D&E gun has a few weak spots in the design that cause firing problems and the Furr, by all reports, seems to have been a well functioning gun.    The differences, although maybe minor appear to make a large difference in functionality.

Thanks !
George

[dcp-furr]

This is a 7+ year old thread, but the best option I\'ve been able to find. I have an 1876 Furr Camel Gun, same as an 1874 Carriage Gun with shorter barrels smaller magazine and tripod, that I need to disassemble and have a look at. I went to the picture link, but only the first picture is shown. Couldn\'t figure out how to see additional. I\'d love to get as many pointers as possible before I start taking it apart. Took it shooting and got about 20 rounds through it, when it locked up. I can get it backwards about 3 barrels, but it will not go forward and I don\'t want to break anything. At this point I\'ve determined that it is 100% unloaded. Now for the next step.