Carrier block and barrel plates question

[maccrazy2]

I am going to start soon on the carrier block and barrel plates. Reading thru the notes on how to build them I was on 48-03 where it says to press fit the 3/8 hex holed sleeve pieces in all 3 components insuring that the hex flats line up.

I plan on building a 2 piece carrier and likely the wedge style barrel plate Jerry came up with. There is no mention of how to insure the hex sleeves end up aligned. My initial thought is to press the sleeve in the carrier, stack and pin the barrel plate and use a hex bar as a guide and press in its sleeve. Then, stack and pin the front barrel plate and press the hex sleeve in it as well.

Is there a better method I should be looking at like a jig to align off of the hex? Thanks Chris

[Cutter]

I am going to start soon on the carrier block and barrel plates. Reading thru the notes on how to build them I was on 48-03 where it says to press fit the 3/8 hex holed sleeve pieces in all 3 components insuring that the hex flats line up.

I plan on building a 2 piece carrier and likely the wedge style barrel plate Jerry came up with. There is no mention of how to insure the hex sleeves end up aligned. My initial thought is to press the sleeve in the carrier, stack and pin the barrel plate and use a hex bar as a guide and press in its sleeve. Then, stack and pin the front barrel plate and press the hex sleeve in it as well.

Is there a better method I should be looking at like a jig to align off of the hex? Thanks Chris

 

This would be my method on your equipment.

First , turn & face the barrel plates, bolt carrier, and cartridge carrier.

Second , Bore a .500 center hole for a slip fit dowel pin on all four pieces.

Third , Turn & face a piece of 3/4” Aluminum to 4” diameter

with a .500 diameter boss, ( slip fit ) 1/4 high , then a 5/16-18 taped hole thru.

The Aluminum plate mounts on the center of your rotary table.

Dial over .625 , then center drill, drill, and ream a .1875 hole by 3/8” deep

in the Aluminum fixture. Now you can do the same with the rear barrel plate,( thru)

the front of the bolt carrier ( 1/2” deep ) , one end of the cartridge carrier.

Locating on a slip fit .1875 pin , flip the cartridge carrier over and repeat.

Now when you dial over to 1.000 , all pieces will match up, which is more

important than being exactly a 2.000 bolt circle.

 

I use a .500 diameter main shaft and a key to drive.

The front barrel plate does not need the .1875 alignment hole. 

 

Good luck Chris

[maccrazy2]

Thanks Jerry. I remember reading about a few people who were going to try a keyway instead of the hex tube. It makes it easier to me than dealing with the hex. Looks like I will start looking for a broach set on eBay. I already have a good selection of keyway cutters I picked up a couple years ago.

Are you getting a good finish in the carrier bores with the boring bar alone or is a reamer still needed?

[Cutter]

Thanks Jerry. I remember reading about a few people who were going to try a keyway instead of the hex tube. It makes it easier to me than dealing with the hex. Looks like I will start looking for a broach set on eBay. I already have a good selection of keyway cutters I picked up a couple years ago.

Are you getting a good finish in the carrier bores with the boring bar alone or is a reamer still needed?

 

My opinion once again, I would not buy a broach for

a one time use. You can put in a .125 slot by 1/2” deep

at the rear of the bolt carrier, see image.

And yes I’m boring to size, but that might not work for

everyone

[maccrazy2]

Are you using the .1875 pin in the bolt carrier and shell carrier to register the barrel plate or a keyway in that as well? Thanks for the info. I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions.

[Cutter]

Are you using the .1875 pin in the bolt carrier and shell carrier to register the barrel plate or a keyway in that as well? Thanks for the info. I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions.

 

The .1875 pins in the barrel plate and carriers do the alignment.

The key is used only for rotation , no alignment needed.

 

See image, larger model, but same principle  

[maccrazy2]

That is what I was picturing. I have some of the brass here already. I ordered some 3in for the bolt carrier and barrel plates. Once it gets here I will get started. Finding a lot of 10/22 barrels was harder than I expected.

[bruski]

If you use a keyed shaft instead of the hex shaft, don\'t cut the key groove the whole length of the shaft or it will turn into a banana from the stress relief.

 

bruski

[maccrazy2]

Got a couple reamers, pins, keys and key stock coming. I started looking for barrels again so I can start sourcing them. I have 2 10/22 barrels so far.

[Cutter]

Avoid the NOID

[maccrazy2]

Missed it by that much

[Cutter]

Run out an misalignment will cause hard cranking or no cranking.

With minimum run out the bolts also slide easier through the carrier.

 

.010 radial clearance on the RG-G , if you use half of that the trouble starts

[maccrazy2]

Got going on the carriers.

[maccrazy2]

The alignment pin holes

[bruski]

Looking Good Maccrazy.

 

bruski

[maccrazy2]

The boring bar I thought would work was a little too big. I ended up grinding down one of the inexpensive soldiered bars and I am just getting it dialed in to .420

The surface finish came out nice on the first hole.

[maccrazy2]

Got two of them machined. I still need to turn the OD down to size and cut the keyway slot. Quite happy with how they turned out.