My RG-G Build Progress

The Wife and I ran to the basement, the area behind the open door you see in the pic. I squated down beside my 800lb. safe. The news says it was a class 4. 150 to 170 MPH winds. A tree fell accross my 500Gal propane tank and knocked off the gages and it was squirting raw propane 100 ft in the air while lightning flashed all around. We had to \"BUG OUT\" but we didn\'t have a \"BUG OUT BAG\" I\'m here to tell you that everybody needs to have a BUG OUT BAG ready to go.

I was in Salt Lake City when the Wednesday evening tornados came through Birmingham. My wife and kids were home and took shelter in our \"Storm Room\". We added on the the house several years ago and I had the intention to add a small shelter closet under a ground level two car garage we were adding. This evolved into a 26\'x28\' Storm Room (aka mancave). The walls are 12\" block with reinforced and grouted cells (if I were doing this again I would form and pour the walls) and the ceiling/garage floor is 8\" reinforced 6000# concrete.


Finding a door was somewhat problematic. A solid wood door in a steel frame is $1000 and will not stop a 200mph 2x4. FEMA has a storm rated door design but it is about $5000. I found a guy in Rockmart, Ga. that makes his living swapping out bank vault doors. Turns out that there is not much market for used doors, even the scrappers don\'t want them because they are so difficult to cut up. I ended up getting a Mosler New Century Vault Door from him. The door has a 6\" thick steel door plate and (16) 2\" locking bolts. The door weighs 7,500# and cost $400. Delivery of the door to Birmingham was $200 and renting a crane to set the door was another $400 for a total of $1000.


In a storm we (and sometimes the neighbors) enter the room, close the door and set the lock bolts from the inside and ride it out. By the way, the movies that show people getting locked in vaults over the weekend must be using a different door than I have, manipulating the locks fom the inside is very easy and obvious. The room has water, telephone service and internet. Surprisingly we can also get weak cell coverage in the room.


In a storm debris would likely block the door but I don\'t think that the storm will be able to get in.


nitewatchman

 

[attachment=9210:Mosler Vault Door 02 (Medium)-id=517.JPG]

 

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wow,my thoughts and prayers to you and family, may tommrow be a better day forever.

R-R

How is the recovery going? Are you about to get things back together after the storm?

nitewatchman

Great idea for the fixture!  I made a slightly smaller one of aluminum and was able to do eight at a time with no problem. I was able to borrow a cutter similar to the one in your pictures and put the angle on the one end again, with no problem.  I do have a question about the angle though. Is the degree we are using going to work?  My protractor is telling me that it\'s closer to 30 degrees than 15 but I never was good at math.  Any advice is greatly appreciated and, with the fixture now made, making more is easy.  Thanks.

WOW!  I had no idea of the destruction!  My heart goes out to you as well as my prayers for a speedy recovery.  When I posted my question, I had no idea of what happened.  I\'m pretty much a computer nerd and didn\'t see that there were 7 pages to the thread; duuuuh!  So never mind my questions, they can wait. Best of luck to you.

Hay Guys:

I\'m back. It\'s been a year of working every day off to get things back in order. My equiptment is back in, wired, and running. My advice to you is get insurence with a good company. I can\'t say enough good about our insurence co. I will post some pics later.
Thanks
R-R

GREAT NEWS !!
WELCOME BACK !!

Ok back to making parts. One of the things I\'ve put off is the caseing. The Piece of DOM I used has a undersize I.D. so I had to bore it out. At this point all I have to bore with is a bar made from a 3/4\" hydrolic cylinder & it\'s kind of flexable.

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I wanted to drill the holes for the caseing and cambox and the rails(?) all at the same time so I turned a dandrell that would hold the cambox at the correct angle and the caseing and drilled them at the same time.

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I cut a keyway in the manderll for the slot in the cambox and made a key to fit it.

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Here is the mandrell w/cambox installed

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And the flats being milled on the caseing.

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Then I took it to work and engraved it. It looks a little big but it\'s on there now and can\'t be removed.

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This morning I soldered on the Elevation Ball Socket on to the caseing. While I had it on the mandrell I drilled two 1/8 holes @ BDC - .250 & 1.1 from the end & drilled two corresponding holes in the Elevation Ball Socket. That made possitioning it idiot proof. That\'s the way I like it. And I made the two Wheel Keepers.

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Next week I\'m going to make some Wheel Keeper Latches. Anyone else want one. I just thought, I made some bolt extractors and sold them. They were steel. Were they supposed to be brass? I guess it\'s too late to worry about that now....

Wow - everything that happened. Glad to see on page seven that you back to working on things again. Hope to find another topic with more with your work.

Later 42rocker

Hi All: I have finished my Gat. except for a lot of polishing and the like. I am having some troubles with it. Hope you all can help. Here\'s my problem. It seems like the firing pin springs too strong. Quite often while extracting a empty case will be pushed out from under the extractor. 22Lr cases do not have a sharp square rim so there is a tendency for the extractor to ride up over it and turn loose of the case. Has anyone had this problem. I have considered sanding down the O.D. of the springs and thereby reducing their strength. Also it takes, what I think, is to much torque to crank the gun while firing. With the cocking switch pulled out it free wheels pretty easy. Any suggestions?

Thanks

R-R

 

Putting a edit here, where I ran out of pics.... Dave

Welcome Back and Glad that you were able to finish it. Sorry to hear about the problems. Still in the start of the building of mine so can\'t help you out. I\'m sure that one of the great folks here on the site will have an idea or two.
Would love to see a few (ok, lot) of your finished pics.

Later 42rocker

I would first check the Extractor tip, should have a slight positive angle.
If the tip is straight or negative, it will slid over the rim.
A 16 lb/in spring should do it. ( Lee Spring # LC 040D 15 M )

Good luck

Hi 42Rocker & Cutter Thanks for the fast response. The hammer springs I am using were in the small parts kit I bought from R-GG. How do the hammer spring springs you suggest compare.  P.S. I have been looking at the work by Dennis & Brian\'s Build and WOW! that\'s some nice work. In comparison, mine looks like it was made with a grinder and hammer. I\'m not much for polishing and mine is all steel. Even so, I could buff it up a little.
Thanks.....

In my opinion just another RG-G error.
A .200 diameter hammer shaft in a spring with a .200 ID. ( no clearance )
That adds up to a .280 OD spring. ( nothing standard )
I use a .300 diameter spring in a .312 hole with
a .205 diameter hammer shaft.   .010 clearance is standard.

If I was selling a set of drawings I would want to have them as bullet proof as possibly. To my knowledge he has not corrected any errors in years. He should be a active part of this site or his own site. Has he ever posted or been on this board?
P.S. Where did you order the springs.

R-R
If you email me your mailing address I\'ll send
you the springs, I have 10 extra.

Cutter:
What an awesome offer Jerry. You are always willing to help everyone all the time.

R_R
Thanks for the kind words on our build. We are not far enough along to offer any help. I can hardly wait to get to the point we can actually turn the bolts in the casing. Please keep us posted on your trouble shooting.