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Hello all, I also started my RGG just over 3 months ago, a few hours in my spare time each day since I had nothing better to do after work since I can’t really go anywhere and I am almost finished “roughing in†the gun itself with only the bolts and magazine remaining to be completed. I would post a pic but it doesn’t appear to let me.
I have two questions for you: first I was wondering how much bolt to carrier and bolt pin to box cam clearance works best for this design in the experience of those who have completed one? The fact that the designer originally had the pins at zero clearance and opened it up to .0125 in later drawings lead me to believe a little more carrier to bolt clearance might be better as well but I don’t want to risk scrapping the bolt bodies finding out the print clearance of about .002-.003 is ideal.
Second, I noticed there is no latching mechanism of any kind for the magazine base which struck me as being odd. What have others been doing to keep the base from flopping around?
Thanks for the help,
Dave
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Are you referring to the box cam follower pins? The flats on the bolts keep the bolts from rocking side to side so the slot in the carrier is ok a little loose. But the follower pins need to be right on for head space. Mine are .190 diameter for the .200 box cam space width.
bruski
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Here’s what I came up with for a latch if anyone is interested. A spring loaded plunger that will release when the knob is pulled and will latch automatically when closed. Simple but effective.
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Here’s what I came up with for a latch if anyone is interested. A spring loaded plunger that will release when the knob is pulled and will latch automatically when closed. Simple but effective.
Sounds great, could you post some pictures please
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Sorry about that, I thought I did. Let’s try again...
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Looks great! Did you solder the spring housing onto the magazine well? Do you got any sketches or drawings of the pieces to share? Got a photo with the mag well opened?
Thanks!
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I silver soldered it (Hi Force 44) and added an additional 2-56 flat head for added strength but the latter is probably unnecessary. I pretty much built it on the fly but if you have any questions as to specifics I’ll do my best to answer them. One thing I would definitely recommend is match drilling the top cover and breech casing with a 3/16†followed by a 1/4†endmill. The small hole you see at the end of the plunger is for inserting a small punch so the knob can be loosened/tightened.